Cacao Geschichte eines Welterfolgs Cocoa A Global Success Story

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1 Cacao Geschichte eines Welterfolgs Cocoa A Global Success Story Exhibition at the Palmengarten, Frankfurt a. M., Germany 22 May 20 Sep English texts by Theodor C. H. Cole Theobroma cacao Botany. Cocoa and chocolate are derived from the seeds of the cocoa tree (Theobroma cacao), which can attain a height of up to 20 meters but is usually kept at less than 8 meters in cultivation for more convenient harvesting of the stem-borne fruit. Of the many tiny, white-purplish flowers only few are eventually pollinated by equally tiny midges. The fruit varies from green, yellow, orangish to brown, is oblong to roundish, more or less grooved, and smooth or warty. When mature, the cocoa pods remain closed and attached to stem and branches. Inside are large seeds (cocoa beans) each consisting of two huge, intricately folded cotyledons that are either whitish or purple-brown, and bitter. The seeds are surrounded by a whitish and soft, sweet-tasting pulp. In the related Cupuaçu (Theobroma grandiflorum) this pulp is particularly delicious and in Brazil is made into juices, jams, ice cream and candies. The cocoa tree and its relatives. Cocoa is a member of the mallow family (Malvaceae), formerly Sterculiaceae oder Byttneriaceae along with cola, jute, kapok, hibiscus, and okra. There are 22 species in the genus Theobroma. Varieties. There are two main varieties of cocoa: Criollo trees are more stout; pods are oblong, pointed, warty, with deep grooves; historically cultivated by Mayas and Aztecs it is chiefly grown in Central America and Mexico; seeds are mildly bitter, requiring short fermentation periods, yielding high-quality cocoa. Forastero trees are more sturdy; pods roundish and smooth; seeds more bitter and requiring more extended fermenting time; originating in South America; includes the Amelonado cultivars chiefly grown in Brazil and West Africa and yielding the bulk of today's world cocoa production. Trinitario is a cross between Criollo and Forastero from Trinidad and is also widely cultivated. Molecular analyses trace the origin of cocoa to the upper Amazon Basin. These studies also revealed that Forasteros consist of eight lineages rather than being one group, and that the Criollo variety represent a further lineage that was particularly selected and dispersed northwards by man and eventually reaching Mexico where it was and still is widely cultivated. Plantations of cocoa require wet-tropical conditions. Other types of taller growing trees are usually interspersed to provide shade to the cocoa trees. The leaf litter layer provides a home for the pollinating midges. Fungal diseases can infest and damage the pods and lead to loss of productivity. The pods are harvested at full maturity, as a sweet pulp is needed for proper fermentation. Harvesting is done with machetes and hooked knives attached to poles as the pods remain firmly attached by short, but hard and woody fruit stalks. Fermentation of the pulp sets in upon mechanically opening the pods; it lasts 2 to 9 days and is critical for the quality and further processing, as it reduces the natural bitterness of the seeds and provides an

2 initial basis for the overall desired aroma. The drying process, which also adds further flavor, eventually leads to storable cocoa beans. These dried, unroasted cocoa beans are then shipped for further processing. Processing of imported fermented and dried cocoa beans continues with mechanical cleaning and thermal sterilization, followed by quality controls regarding adequate fermentation. Quality cocoa beans contain about 54% cocoa butter, 11.5% protein, 9% cellulose, 8.5% starch, sugar and other carbohydrates, 6% tannins and pigments, 5% water, 2.6% minerals, 1.5% theobromine, 0.3% caffeine and some 400 different natural flavorant and fragrant substances. Roasting of precrushed cocoa beans occurs at C, developing their full aroma and color. Further crushing results in so-called nibs (tiny cocoa fragments); during this stage remaining husks are removed by winnowing. Grinding of the nibs now releases the cocoa butter, leading to an oily and sticky paste called cocoa liquor which is heated and submitted to high pressure to extract the cocoa butter. The remaining stiff and dry cocoa paste is then milled into cocoa powder. Adding alkali (also referred to as 'Dutching') supports the cocoa butter extraction process, leading to a better solubility of the resulting cocoa powder in water and milk, and has a positive effect on taste and color the more alkali and the lower the content of cocoa butter, the darker the resulting cocoa powder. Chocolate is then made by mixing cocoa liquor, cocoa butter, sugar, milk powder, and flavorants. The mixed paste is passed through steel rollers to reduce particle size and release additional oils. Conching (kneading under slight heating) further develops flavor and leads to the desirable smooth texture. Dark chocolate consists only of cocoa and sugar milk chocolate contains milk powder and more cocoa butter, but less cocoa liquor and more sugar than dark chocolate. History. Cocoa is documented to have been used by people for more than 4000 years. The Olmecs ( BC) widely cultivated the plants and referred to their favorite beverage as ka-ka-wa. The Mayans ( AD) pulverized roasted cocoa beans on grinding stones retaining the cocoa butter for a bitter-tasting beverage to which they added chili peppers, allspice, and vanilla. Extensive agitation created a much desired frothy drink. Later, the Aztecs stored cocoa as dry tortilla-like slabs of cocoa and corn meal. Montezuma II stored tons of these and is reported to have consumed up to 50 cups a day. The Aztec word chocolatl/xocoatl means "bitter water" but also the beater used for frothing the cocoa powder in water. Cocoa consumption was restricted to the highest leaders and also used in ceremonies, thus Linnaeus named it Theobroma, food of the gods. The Aztecs also used cocoa beans as a currency in the 16th century a slave was worth 100 cocoa beans. In 1519, Hernán Cortéz started first cocoa plantations to serve his army as an energy boost. The Spaniards added black pepper, spices and cane sugar to suit their taste, and shortly cocoa drinking started to become fashionable in Europe. Cocoa conquers Europe. Cocoa beans reached Seville in The sweetened drink quickly became popular among high society, and by the mid-17th century had spread to Italy and then throughout the rest of Europe and North America. The

3 Spanish monopoly on cocoa lasted till Eventually, the Englishman Hans Sloane patented his recipe of mixing cocoa into milk. Cocoa plantations were now being grown in the Caribbean and Southeast Asia, and then later in West Africa where most of today's cocoa is from. Large-scale chocolate manufacturing started in the mid-18th century in Germany and by the early 19th century first factories were being established, also in Frankfurt. Swiss chocalate factories like Caillier, Suchard, Tobler, Stollwerck, Sprüngli, and Sprengel were founded in Switzerland at the same time. In 1858, Europe imported some 17 million tons of cocoa, most of which by Spain and France. Over the years many improvements in technology, composition, and treatment led to the enormous diversity and high-quality of today's chocolates. By the 1920s, solid chocolate bars had become more popular than drinking chocolate. As prices plummeted, chocolate became a general commodity for all levels of society. Beyond the general low-cost consumer chocolates, many manufacturers are now offering chocolates with all kinds of added spices and flavors, and there is a trend towards specific plantation signature chocolates, similar as in the coffee sector. Advertisement has emphasized the merits and different effects and benefits of cocoa and chocolate targeting various consumer groups. The exhibition displays a broad variety of objects, banners, posters and wrappings demonstrating the huge efforts and investments and imagination that has gone into popularizing this product. World cocoa production, prices, consequences. Hardly any cocoa is consumed by those people who grow it. Over 90% is produced on small farms, and while actually growing a luxury product, the majority of local farmers hardly earn enough to feed their families, this especially being the case in Africa. Fermented cocoa beans are chiefly sold to companies in Europe and North America via agents and brokers. Increased demand has led to an expansion of plantations: in 1985 world production was 1.5 million tons, by 2013 it had increased to 4 million tons at the expense of tropical rain forests and eventually with the effect of drastically plummeting prices due to overproduction and competition. Cocoa prices are rising due to aging plantations and higher demand especially by the Chinese middle class and effects by the current Ebola epidemic in West Africa. Chief consumers are the Netherlands, USA, Germany, Belgium, and France together accounting for more than half of world cocoa products. The average German annually consumes about ten kilograms and Germany is the leading exporter of cocoa products. Prices for fermented cocoa beans vary considerably and are due to speculations on the spot markets. This unreliability for farmers has led to an expansion of plantation area throughout the tropics leading to lower prices a vicious circle, also responsible for child labor. We can individually help to eliminate the scourge of child labor by refraining from purchasing cheapest possible products and rather choosing and supporting Fair Trade. Child labor. A particular problem regarding child labor centers around cocoa production in the Ivory Coast, West Africa. After independence, the country's

4 economy boomed and cocoa production expanded; an influx of workers ensued. Plummeting cocoa prices resulted in economic tension, civil war, and ethnic conflicts, causing plantation worker to leave the country. Plantation owners now started to refer this work to children, first their own, then recruiting children from other desperate families. The consequences are dramatic in respect to health problems and lack of education. We can help to fight this by encouraging and supporting responsible business ethics and fair trade. Some of the many labels of Fair Trade are presented here. There are no binding rules or regulations defining fair trade, but in order to reach a certain level of standardization and transparency for consumers the Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International (FLO) was founded in Bonn in 1997 setting standards that consider adequate social, ecological, and economic development for producers. Expansion of cocoa plantations may lead to extinction of a spider monkey in Ecuador. A small remaining population of Brown-headed Spider Monkeys (Ateles fusciceps fusciceps) in Ecuador is critically endangered. Expansion of cocoa plantations into the protected forest may lead to their ultimate extinction. The Chocó- Project attempts to conserve their natural forested habitats in the Tesoro Escondido District by supporting local farmers in applying methods of sustainable development and agriculture. Taste. Criollo cocoa has a finer, more complex and distinguished taste than Forastero cocoa, which is more bitter and contains less caffeine in comparison to Criollo. However, the majority of today's cocoa products are derived from Forastero and its hybrids, an important reason being that they are less susceptible to fungal diseases and other types of phytoparasites. The taste strongly depends on postharvest and processing conditions. Chocolate substitutes. In times of war and economic constraints various other ingredients and plant resources have been used to create chocolate-like products. Combinations of oats, malt, soy, peas, and nuts have variously been employed with vegetable oils. A modern alternative to chocolate is carob a legume from the carob or honey locust tree (Ceratonia siliqua) and carob bars are claimed to be "better than cholocate"!? Chocolate and health. Cocoa and chocolate should be consumed in moderation despite the many positive health effects that are claimed to be associated with some of its natural constituents. The contained caffeine, energy-rich carbohydrates and cocoa butter can improve performance and its polyphenols and flavonoids protect against cardiovascular and malignant diseases. Finally, chocolate is said to make you happy. While its various chemical constituents do not seem to be responsible, its taste and consistency may very well cause a psychological effect, by imagination even aphrodisiac!

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7 Paulsen, O. 2008: Fair oder nicht fair? Drei Gütesiegelund Kodex-Systeme im Vergleich mit dem zertifizierten Fairen Handel. Forum Fairer Handel e.v. Mainz Paulsen, O. 2012: Vergleich verschiedener Fair Trade Zertifizierungssysteme. Auf Grundlage von Dokumenten vom Stand Januar Forum Fairer Handel. Berlin Schösswender, B. 2012: Der Faire Handel in Deutschland. Grundsätze. Wirkungen. Akteure. Forum Fairer Handel e.v. Berlin Ryan, Ó. 2011: Chocolate Nations: living and dying for cocoa in West Africa. London, New York. (Abruf ) September (Abruf ) (Hakeem Jimo, A. 2002: Die Nuss für Götter und Bauern. die tageszeitung vom ) 8, Abruf ) (Johnson, D., 2006: Aufrüstung dank Kakao. die tageszeitung vom ) infos/vontobel-rohstoff-kolumne-kakao-kommtjetzt-dietrendwende/v_microsite/ html (Handelsblatt 2012: Rohstoffkolumne) (Abruf ) (Hütz-Adams, F., 2012: Vom Kakaobaum bis zum Konsumenten. In: Südwind e.v., Institut für Ökonomie und Ökumene. Siegburg.) (Abruf ) (Mitteilungen der Europ.ischen Union, 2013) (Abruf ) siehe auch: (Zukunftsstiftung Landwirtschaft, 2013: Weltagrarbericht. Wege aus der Hungerkrise. Die Erkenntnisse und Folgen des Weltagrarberichts: Vorschl.ge für eine Landwirtschaft von morgen) (Homepage des Bundesverbandes der deutschen Sü.warenindustrie (BDSI), Bonn, Stand 2013) (Homepage der Food and Agricultural Organization (FAO), Rom, Stand 2013) (Homepage der International Cocoa Organization (ICCO), London, Stand 2013) (Abruf ) (Homepage von TransFair e.v.) (Abruf ) (The Sustainable Trade Initiative) (Forum Nachhaltiger Kakao) sussex.ac.uk/lifesci/pecklab/spidermonkey/index (Informationen zum Choc.-Project und dem Schutz der Braunkopfklammeraffen) de.wikipedia.org/wiki/elfenbeinküste Naturland_end.pdf Forum Fairer Handel: Einordnung der Fair-Handels-Zertifizierungen von IMO, Ecocert und Naturland, Stand September (Homepage von Max Havelaar) (Homepage von Fairtrade) (Homepage von der GEPA) (Homepage von GEPA fair+) (Homepage UTZ Certified, Antwort auf den Artikel von.ko-test) Taste (Die Geschichte der ehemaligen Haferkakaofabrik Schüle-Hohenlohe in Bettenhausen) (Schokolade in der Deutschen Demokratischen Republik, DDR) Health Belz, G. G. 2008: Lebe länger und gesünder. Heidelberg Belz, G. G. & Mohr-Kahaly, S. 2011: Kakao und dunkle Schokolade zur kardiovaskulären Prävention? Dtsch. Mediz. Wochenschr. 136: Gstirner, F. 1960: Grundstoffe und Verfahren der Arzneibereitung. Stuttgart Krist, S., Buchbauer, G. & Klausberger, C. 2008: Lexikon der pflanzlichen Fette und Öle. Wien, New York Mutschler, E. 2008: Arzneimittelwirkungen. Lehrbuch der Pharmakologie und Toxikologie, 9. Aufl. Stuttgart Pabst, G. 1887: Köhler s Atlas der Medizinalpflanzen. Gera-Untermhaus. Reprint Augsburg 1997 Roth, K Von Vollmilch bis Bitter, edelste Polymorphie. Chem. Unserer Zeit 39: Brickman, A. M., Khan, U. A., Provenzano, F. A., Yeung, L.-K., Suzuki, W., Schroeter, H., Wall, M., Sloan, R. P. & Small, S. A Enhancing dentate gyrus function with dietary flavanols improves cognition in older adults. Nat. Neurosci. doi: /nn.3850